However – in the lead up to the festive season and with the serotonin levels rising, the spatial memory of debauchery throughout of the Gregorian calendar cannot be ignored, and in truth a great influence on what will adorn our Christmas table. There is one grape variety that has dominated the palate this year – The Year of the Chenin Blanc, or Annus Chenin as it were - and having flirted with this leprotic white grape for most of my sommelier career, and tortured many people with it, I feel somewhat reconciled or vindicated, that – finally – chenin blanc may have its day.

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