The Big Beef

A return trip to the Hong Kong outpost of Morton’s of Chicago is very close to just getting on an airplane and flying back to the United States. There needs to be a big sign at the door: Danger: American Portions. Morton’s is busily establishing beachheads across Asia — so far in the Sheraton Hotel in Hong Kong, another in the Mandarin Oriental Singapore and a brand new one in the vast new Venetian Macau Resort Hotel on the booming Cotai Strip. If it is red meat you crave, this is the place. There are martinis too, big enough for a birdbath for the

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