At a recent dinner party at an exclusive Singapore restaurant, the proprietor enthusiastically encouraged a choice from a selection of air-freighted and expensive wines. But the wine chosen, a 2004 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanee burgundy of great repute and equivalent price, was a mess, with the cork breaking through both a wax top and lead capsule and the wine cloudy as a result of a protein haze, as unfiltered, un-fined wholesome pinot noirs are prone to do when mistreated. Temperature extremes had ruined it.