When Korea’s Yellow Sea Turned Black (s…

Notes on the seashore of Taean County: It's a place of fine-sand beaches backed by stands of seaside pines. Small restaurants in the fishing villages serve up oysters on the half shell, abalone soup and sashimi platters at fair prices. Stylish young women from Seoul come down here on summer weekends to show off their bikinis and the shopkeepers keep their coolers stocked with plenty of beer. It's the best fly-fishing locale for Japanese sea bass on Korea's western coastline and great migrations of ducks, teal and shorebirds arrive in the fall from Siberia.

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