Under Spicy Crab/Chilli Crab Under the Bridge

If you want your chilli crab the way they used to serve it in Hong Kong’s typhoon shelters before they pushed the boat people onto land, try a place with two names: Chilli Crab Under the Bridge and, somewhat confusingly at the top of the menu, Under Spicy Crab. The owner, Wong Ching-tuen, first opened Under Spicy Crab as a 22-table restaurant around the…