The train pulls into Yogyakarta’s main railway station. Produce is unloaded, sons and daughters are shuttled home and visitors, eager to explore the bastion of Javanese culture, follow the path of other tourists. They make a beeline for Borobudur, Jalan Malioboro or the Sultan’s Palace (Kraton).
They bypass an unassuming enclave of warungs (stalls) behin…