The Wandering Palate: Pinot Noir Doesn’t Fight Back

As the legions grow of Asians who are abandoning centuries of rice-wine-based reasons to enjoy themselves, I am running into increasing numbers of people complaining that red wines give them headaches. Without entertaining the possibility that they simply drink too much, they inevitably link the problem to the higher levels of tannins found in varieties…

Touch of Glass

So. You have a choice between the jelly glasses your Aunt Melba gave you for Christmas 10 years ago and a set of fragile, hand-blown Riedels costing HK$220 each. Which is going to deliver the nuances you want from that Te Mata Sauvignon Blanc 2003? Which is going to deliver a tactile, textual sense? How…

Those Blue Tights Look Awfully Familiar

I admit proprietary feelings toward Superman. I knew him in older days, the 1960s, when a normal American boy couldn't afford not to buy the monthly edition of each of the Superman titles—Action, Adventure,  Superman, Superboy—and, for domestic peace,  share them with his siblings. In my case, I also had to share with my mother,…

What Next, Rolando?

Roland Schuller, one of Hong Kong's most exciting chefs, abandoned the city suddenly about five years ago, citing what he felt was the overwhelming pressure of trying to keep two top-ranked restaurants operating at the level of quality he demanded.  Now he’s back, running what he considers to be a far more satisfying business, and…

Better Than Inedible

A McDonald's restaurant is not something that would normally fall into the Deveaux omniverse. But a number of events have changed that. First, Hong Kong shouldn't be proud of the fact that, especially in October and November, along one of the most spectacular seascapes in the world, there is no place to dine outside except…

Grace Notes: Philippines Musicians on the Road

Village to Metropolis: Filipino musicians on the road   Wearing identical slinky black dresses with spaghetti straps and clutching their microphones, Joy Villanueva and Mary-Jane Jocson patrol a smoky bandstand at the Q88 Wine Bar in the JW Marriott Hotel at Pacific Place in Hong Kong, belting out Whitney Houston's "I'm Every Woman" in front of…

“Everything we eat must die”

Joel Robuchon doesn't let controversy get in the way of haute cuisine. Acclaimed one of the greatest chefs of the 20th Century, the 61-year-old Robuchon was in Macau recently to visit his spectacular restaurant, Robuchon a Galera, and not to just correct the sauce.  He was out to produce as many as 20 new dishes,…

Bhutan and the Brown Trout

  Bhutan and the brown trout   Alistair Scott   Back in the 1930s, Jigme Wangchuk, the second of the four Wangchuk hereditary kings to rule Bhutan in the 20th century, decided that his remote mountain realm was missing one important element – brown trout, salmo trutta, a yellow-brown attraction that can weigh up to…
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